What is a perm and what should I know before getting a perm?
Hair perming is a process that breaks and rebuilds the disulphide bonds of your hair to create the desired wave shapes permanently.
Once the disulphide bonds are broken, a neutralizer will be applied to reform the bonds and lock in the desired hair shape.
There is a wide variety of names for different types of perms, but all these perms are simply variations of the two different perming processes – Cold Perm and Hot Perm.
What are the differences between a cold perm and a hot perm?
Hot Perming
Hot Perming is a process that uses an acidic solution and heat to reform your tresses. Firstly, an acidic solution is applied to break down the disulphide bonds. Then, the cuticle will be remoulded into the desired wave shapes around the digitally heated rods. The heat is what helps set the protein structures into the desired shape. Finally, a neutralizer is applied to re-bond the proteins and lock in the wave shapes in place. Hot perms are ideal for finer hair due to the thermal application. Hot perming requires very minimal maintenance, however, hot perms does not add as much volume at the roots as the hot rollers cannot be kept too close to your scalp.
Cold Perming
Cold perming is more traditional in its processes. There is no heat involved in the cold perming technique. A cold perm is an alkaline-based process, a solution containing ammonium thioglycolate is applied to your locks. This works to break the disulphide bonds and alter the protein structure. The hair will then be coiled around the curling rods, creating the spiral structure. To finish the process, the neutraliser is applied to rebalance and lock the proteins in the new wave shapes. Cold perms are ideal for those who seek tighter, and more defined curls. However, cold perms does require you to apply gels or curling creams to maintain the same level of curl. Unlike hot perming, cold perming does not require thermal application, which makes the look dramatic as it is closer to your roots.
What are the other perms available? How are they different?
The perming process is universal. The only difference lies in the design of the resulting curls. The preceding haircut, and how the rollers are used can make a huge difference in the final result of your hair look. Read on for some examples of the different perms and how they work!
Digital Perm
Digital perms is very similar to ceramic perm which will be shared later in this post, technique wise. The best way to differentiate these two perms from each other is to look at the ends of the hair. Softer and looser overall curls are often digital. This is due to the heat resistant curlers that heat up the hair at a lower temperature.
Digital perm works best for coarse hair, as it is able to withstand the damage and still retain the curls over a long period of time.
Estimated process time: 4 hours
Well suited for: Coarse hair, just over the shoulders.
Ceramic Perm
Ceramic perm uses heat and ceramic curlers to achieve defined S-curls. Ceramic perm curls tend to last longer as these ceramic curlers are able to heat up the hair to a higher temperature. Ceramic perms are creates culs with more volume and “heavier” compared to digital perm. The ends of a ceramic permed hair will remain curly and defined.
Ceramic perm tends to shorten the hair length significantly compared to digital perm due to it’s defined curls. Ceramic perm works bet with coarse hair as it is able to withstand the damage from the heat.
Estimated process time: 4 hours
Well suited for: Coarse hair, bra-length hair that is not heavily layered.
Wave Perm
Wave perm also known as Body perm increases hair volume, creating waves and not curls. Wave perm uses C-curls instead of S-curl in both digital and ceramic perms to create waves, giving your hair a softer voluminous look.
C-curls barely shorten the overall hair length, so it works perfectly shorter hair length.
Estimated process time: 3 hours
Well suited for: Coarse hair, shoulder length and shorter.
Classic Perm
Classic perm tends to be less damaging compared to heat perms. Though heat perms tend to last longer than cold perms.
Well suited for: Coarse hair, shoulder length and shorter.
Twist Perm
The twist perm is made out of small tight spirals by wrapping your hair around small curlers with the application of chemicals. This perm uses the cold perm technique. The process of this perm typically takes longer than most perms due to its defined curls. This is a rather challenging and hideous process as it may damage the hair excessively if it is not in good condition during the time of the perm.
Estimated process time: 5 hours
Well suited for: Coarse hair, shoulder length and shorter.
Pin Curl
The pin curl creates a very defined wave bringing volume and texture to your hair. The name of the perm is derived from the use of pins to clip the hair up after twisting sections into single loop. This style is worn by Marilyn Monroe, and more.
Well suited for: Flat and short hair.
Korean Perm
The Korean perm was inspired by the hair that is worn by Korean actresses. This perm gives you a natural look, with defined curls that softly frames the face, looking voluminous. The ends of your hair will give off a healthy bouncy look. It will be best for your hair to be healthy at the time of perm, for it to be able to withstand the perming process.
Japanese Perm
Japanese perm is a very free-spirit looking perm. It gives you very natural light waves that looks effortlessly stylish and slightly messy.
Choosing the perm that best suits you
There are so many perms for you to choose from, however consider factors such as your hair condition, face shape, hair length, and of course your style preference! That being said, it would be best to consult a hair stylist who specializes in hair perming to give you an analysis of your hair condition, and the possible results. This would be a safer bet, and also to protect your hair from any further damage.
